It is the first known cookbook written by an American, for Americans, and the first cookbook to use decidedly “American” ingredients. Before this cookbook was published, people in the American Colonies used cookbooks which were both written and published in Great Britain. American Cookery, first published in 1798 in Connecticut, was written by a woman named Amelia Simmons. The cookbook sold well, and was affordable to many.
What is notable about the cookbook is its replacement of traditional British ingredients with ingredients found in the American colonies, such as corn, squash, and cranberries. However, even more interesting, is that the author suggested using pearlash, a leavening ingredient. According to The Historic American Cookbook Project, “This was the forerunner of modern baking powders which were soon to revolutionize both home and commercial baking, here and elsewhere”.
Not much is known about Amelia Simmons, beyond conjecture based on certain passages in the cookbook. She references herself as an “American Orphan” and most likely worked as a domestic cook, and included in the second edition (published in the same year in New York) was a flyer:
“The author of American Cookery, not having an education sufficient to prepare the work for the press, the person that was employed by her, and entrusted with the receipts, to prepare them for publication, (with a design to impose on her, and injure the sale of the book) did omit several articles very essential in some of the receipts, and placed others in their stead, which were highly injurious to them, without her consent-which was unknown to her, till after publication.”
This sentiment is an interesting reflection of the publications industry of the time; because Amelia Simmons was uneducated, she was unable to navigate the complex path to publishing her cookbook herself, and needed assistance.
Overall, this historical cookbook filled a critical need for the American colonies; by publishing recipes with decidedly “American” ingredients, Amelia Simmons allowed for the widespread recognition and acceptance of these ingredients into cooking.